Baja Sur

Bahia Conception

We are leaving Baja today; mainland Mexico awaits! Since our last journal entry we’ve traveled from Baja Norte to Baja Sur, lounged around on beaches, kayaked in a beautiful bay, watched as whales splashed in the waves, eaten raw clams with locals off of the top of an old cooler, taken two weeks of Spanish classes, met loads of interesting characters, had a few incredibly mild mishaps, caught a few unsuspecting fish, and managed to record a grand total of 1 podcast. Baja has been wonderful to us! We are exceptionally fortunate to have had the opportunity to spend so much time in this lovely place. If you are planning a trip down here, please feel free to reach out to us for recommendations.

Mulegé - a great place to do nothing.

Bahia Conception - Danielle, Victor, & others… Sampling the chocolate clams. I ate over a dozen of these every day for three days…delicious with lime and hot sauce. Tiffany even ate a few of them…Pelé tried one and spit it out immediately.

Bahia Conception. At night, we stared at the waves as bioluminescent plankton sparkled in the small waves.

In Mulegé, you can pay tribute to the virgin Mary, without being tempted by a free statue.

San Ignacio, halfway between Tijuana and Cabo San Lucas. This church was built by a combination of Jesuits and Dominican missionaries, with “help” from the local Cochimî natives. The Cochimî, who had lived there for thousands of years prior to the arrival of the “helpful” missionaries, suddenly “vanished” from the area in less than a few hundred years. Gross, eh?

Bahia Conception - Pelé found this toy on a tiny beach, accessible only by boat. It was his reward for tolerating the kayak.

San Ignacio - The previously mentioned church in the oasis town of San Ignacio. This thing is beautiful. I can’t help but think about the suffering which glues this thing together. There is a small museum down the street which pays tribute to the vanished indeginous population. There are renderings of the cave art from indigenous tribes. Amazingly, neither the Jesuits nor the Domenicans took the opportunity to ask the natives about the significance of their paintings. Now we are left with little understanding of the art of these “vanished” tribes, and too much understanding of the agenda of the christian colonizers.

One of the few actual rivers in all of Baja California feeds this beautiful lagoon in San Ignacio. When we ate in the town square later that day, the woman who made our food taught us the delightful phrase, “Muy Tranquilo.” A fitting description of this serene place.

Todos Santos - muchos gringos, plus two more!

Street art in Todos Santos

Todos Santos, mas.

La Paz, the capital of Baja Sur.

Todos Santos

La Paz

La Paz

Todos Santos

Todos Santos

Todos Santos

Todos Santos - our view from our van at night. It was amazingly quiet here.

Todos Santos - Pelé en la playa

Todos Santos - We camped out on this beach for two incredibly quiet nights.

Etna & Lila @ El Rufugio in Todos Santos.

Jean Marc from Switzerland in the town of Loretto, BCS

Noel @ El Rufugio in Todos Santos.

Su Su, her son Arthur, Milton and their dogs Pepper and Jazz; Owners of Casa Buena Bed and Breakfast in La Paz. - We stayed in the parking lot of this fabulous place for two weeks while we were taking Spanish lessons in La Paz. Su Su and Milton have an incredible story, which we failed completely to record. Their son Arthur is super funny and as sweet a human being as any I’ve ever met. Were it not for their lovely pool, the 100 degree weather would have been mighty tough on old Pelé and Tiffany. We are happy to have met them, and consider them friends.

Sunset, La Paz.

Tiffany quite likes street art - La Paz

La Paz

La Paz

La Paz - Tiffany, Рустем Казанбаев , Sasha, & Alexi. These guys are traveling around the world, making comedic films. They were super interesting, very funny, and not able to be on the podcast! Check them out HERE and HERE

Diving for it in La Paz.

#1 Student, El Nopal (Clases de Español in La Paz)

La Paz

We stayed a few nights in Cabo San Lucas to visit with our friends from California, Erik and Lala Jacobsen, and Erik’s son Jakob. We actually stayed in an Airbnb rental for three nights. This beauty was our housemate for our stay. If ever you see one of these, and your first instinct is to smash it, please know this is a result of your being an asshole, and is not something you should actually do. These big beauties are harmless to humans, and do a fantastic job of eating other less-harmless spiders, cockroaches and the occasional lizard. The Huntsman is your friend.

I somehow managed to catch a few fish. Pictured here are fried trigger fish (left), and seared bonita (a member of the mackerel family). They were both delicious. A restaurant on the dock was more than happy to prepare our fish, con gusto!

Our new friends from Oregon, Val and Claudia. They are retired Spanish teachers living in Grants Pass, OR. We met them in La Paz, and had a blast hanging out with them there and on the Pacific coast in the surfing town of El Pescadero.

While in Cabo, an unsecured beam of the structure under which we were parked was knocked over and smashed through our windshield. It took three days, and three different shops to get a new windshield installed. Before this, our phone screen was broken. Before that, the screen on my computer was also severely cracked. If these are the worst things to happen to us on this journey, we will be doing just fine! Fortunately no people or animals were injured in any of these glass-mashings!

Our hosts in Cabo San Lucas, Laura, Martin, Their son Zion, and their dogs Simba and Arena.

Our hosts in Cabo San Lucas, Laura, Martin, Their son Zion, and their dogs Simba and Arena.

Baja is a beautiful place, full of kind, patient and curious people. The driving method is chaotic, yet understanding. The food is simple, yet packed with flavor. The Seas are dangerous, yet project tranquility. Just like the weather from coast to coast on this peninsula, one’s experience can range from crazed and blisteringly hot to mild and completely relaxed.

We’re a little bummed out to have not recorded more podcasts, but timing, circumstance and the personal preferences of several interesting people did not allow for that this time. No worries though, there is still a whole shit-load of road ahead of us, and likely many other guests will be sitting in front of our microphones in the near future!

Audios, Baja!
Gracias por tus playas salvajes, gente extraña y chicharrones hermosos.

Andrés, Stephanie y Pelé

Andrew CouchComment